I think at that time, that camera was all mechanical (manual) driven except for the coupled light meter. Look the camera over carefully to see if it has a place for a small battery. This would be the battery for the light meter. If you find it, open it up, observe which side of the battery is up - the positive or negative side - make a note of this so that you'll know which way to insert a replacement battery, and then remove the battery. Record the cell type. Hopefully, there is no corrosion damage to the battery contacts. [If a camera is to be stored for period of time exceeding 6 months, the batteries should be removed.]

There should be two controls on the lenses - focus and aperature setting. If the lens is coupled to the light meter, it will adjust the lens opening when turned on. Usually, the lens is focused by turing the large barrel ring on the lense.

The lense will be wide open while composing and focusing through the view finder. This was a feature to provide a bright view and to aid focusing. The lens will automatically close to the selected f-stop during the exposure and then returns to wide open.

If you do not have a manual, go to Nikon's web site and look for a downloadable version. If this is not available, contact the company and ask where you might get a manual. It is remotely possible that your local Nikon dealer can help you get a manual.

You mentioned 'micro' lenses, did you mean 'macro"?

Macro lenses differ from regular lenses by the shape of the focus field, and the ability to focus on objects close to the lens. A true macro lense is designed to bring flat objects into focus from edge to edge of the negative. A regular lens bring into sharp focus items that are equi-distant from the lense, in other words, it brings into focus a apherical field into focus on the flat film plane. The difference is not noticable for objects more than 8 ft or so away. The difference begins to show, for example, filling the frame of a painting hanging on a wall. The macro will have the better edge-to-edge sharpness. You won't see it in the view finder, but will see the difference when a large print is made.

Macro lenses excel at photographing things like stamps and old post cards.

Your main problem will be finding a photo lab that can do justice to processing the film. Given a good lab, you will find this camera will produce superior results to most digital camera. Only the very high end digital cameras can match it. In my opinion, once you become familar with handling this camera, you will find that it is much easier to use than a digital.

The person who gave me the camera bought the most expensive/quality equipment at the time and it has been stored carefully for 35-40 years. He said the lense (I guess its a macro) would be excellent for the teeny-tiny flowers I wanted to photograph. Between 67-74 he went from an "Ansel Adams" wannabe - to full a color Nature photographer, then to a new facination with tiny detail closeups of color and form. There was a new interest in creating art from microscopic close up detail in the early 70's... it was incredibly beautiful stuff!

Thank you for taking so much time to answer my post, I hope your answer benefits many.

Go to Google's "advanced search" page.
In the first line, enter "Nikon"

In the second line, must contain exactly, enter the model descriptor of the camera such as DK40, etc.

This should narrow the number of hits to a manageable number of relavent hits. If not, scan down to the bottom of the first page of results and click on "search on results". A new panel will pop up. Supply an additional search term, and then hit return or click on the continue button.

I have used this site many, many, many times and find that the manuals are reproductions of the original manuals.

http://www.butkus.org/chinon/index.html

When you get to the site home page you will see a list of most of the common camera manufacturers. Select your brand and it will direct you to a page where you can find the specific model number you have. You can either review the manual on the site or you can download a copy free.

Both lenses can do close-ups. The difference lies within the optic design. A macro lense has been optimized for recroding flat objects such as postage stamps and post cards. It brings the image of a flat object in focus all across the film (or sensor) field.

The other lense is an ordinary lens that can close focus. Objects equidistant from a point within the lens comes into focus on the film/sensor plane. In other words, the region of sharp focus is a spherical shell instead of being flat.