I think at that time, that camera was all mechanical (manual) driven except for the coupled light meter. Look the camera over carefully to see if it has a place for a small battery. This would be the battery for the light meter. If you find it, open it up, observe which side of the battery is up - the positive or negative side - make a note of this so that you'll know which way to insert a replacement battery, and then remove the battery. Record the cell type. Hopefully, there is no corrosion damage to the battery contacts. [If a camera is to be stored for period of time exceeding 6 months, the batteries should be removed.]

There should be two controls on the lenses - focus and aperature setting. If the lens is coupled to the light meter, it will adjust the lens opening when turned on. Usually, the lens is focused by turing the large barrel ring on the lense.

The lense will be wide open while composing and focusing through the view finder. This was a feature to provide a bright view and to aid focusing. The lens will automatically close to the selected f-stop during the exposure and then returns to wide open.

If you do not have a manual, go to Nikon's web site and look for a downloadable version. If this is not available, contact the company and ask where you might get a manual. It is remotely possible that your local Nikon dealer can help you get a manual.

You mentioned 'micro' lenses, did you mean 'macro"?

Macro lenses differ from regular lenses by the shape of the focus field, and the ability to focus on objects close to the lens. A true macro lense is designed to bring flat objects into focus from edge to edge of the negative. A regular lens bring into sharp focus items that are equi-distant from the lense, in other words, it brings into focus a apherical field into focus on the flat film plane. The difference is not noticable for objects more than 8 ft or so away. The difference begins to show, for example, filling the frame of a painting hanging on a wall. The macro will have the better edge-to-edge sharpness. You won't see it in the view finder, but will see the difference when a large print is made.

Macro lenses excel at photographing things like stamps and old post cards.

Your main problem will be finding a photo lab that can do justice to processing the film. Given a good lab, you will find this camera will produce superior results to most digital camera. Only the very high end digital cameras can match it. In my opinion, once you become familar with handling this camera, you will find that it is much easier to use than a digital.

The person who gave me the camera bought the most expensive/quality equipment at the time and it has been stored carefully for 35-40 years. He said the lense (I guess its a macro) would be excellent for the teeny-tiny flowers I wanted to photograph. Between 67-74 he went from an "Ansel Adams" wannabe - to full a color Nature photographer, then to a new facination with tiny detail closeups of color and form. There was a new interest in creating art from microscopic close up detail in the early 70's... it was incredibly beautiful stuff!

Thank you for taking so much time to answer my post, I hope your answer benefits many.

Go to Google's "advanced search" page.
In the first line, enter "Nikon"

In the second line, must contain exactly, enter the model descriptor of the camera such as DK40, etc.

This should narrow the number of hits to a manageable number of relavent hits. If not, scan down to the bottom of the first page of results and click on "search on results". A new panel will pop up. Supply an additional search term, and then hit return or click on the continue button.

I have used this site many, many, many times and find that the manuals are reproductions of the original manuals.

http://www.butkus.org/chinon/index.html

When you get to the site home page you will see a list of most of the common camera manufacturers. Select your brand and it will direct you to a page where you can find the specific model number you have. You can either review the manual on the site or you can download a copy free.

Both lenses can do close-ups. The difference lies within the optic design. A macro lense has been optimized for recroding flat objects such as postage stamps and post cards. It brings the image of a flat object in focus all across the film (or sensor) field.

The other lense is an ordinary lens that can close focus. Objects equidistant from a point within the lens comes into focus on the film/sensor plane. In other words, the region of sharp focus is a spherical shell instead of being flat.

Actually it is not as difficult as one might expect, and I still set my DSLR on manual and play with eyeballing exposures just to see if I still have the touch.

Back in the mid 1800's every photographer had to make his/her own photo sensitive plates. Even though every photographer was using basically the same system to make the plates, there was still an element of inconsistancy from one to another, so they each had to experiment to determine the correct exposure for their plates.

When George Eastman began commercially making plates and film in the late 1800's he needed some type of index to standardize the exposure so he could tell photographers how to use his product.

Understanding that the film might be used anywhere on earth it then stood that they needed an index for the brightest light, and a set of guidelines on how to compensate for the conditions where ever one might use the film.

The brightest sunlight occurs at noon at the equator so they tested the film at the equator and determined how much time it took to get a proper exposure with the lens set at f-16. The time was then called the ASA rating for the film, thus if you use your film in bright mid day sun at the equator you could set your aperture to f-16 and your shutter speed to equal the ISO number and you would get a proper exposure.

As you move north of south from the equator the angle of incidence of the sunlight decreases so you have to compensate the exposure, thus in North America when shooting in bright mid day sun we have to open the lens one f-stop, therefore to get a normal exposure we would use the ISO number for shutter speed and set the aperture to f-11. Now divide the time from noon till sundown. In the first one third of that time the exposure is the same as at noon. In the next one third of the time open one f-stop (f-8) and in the last one third open two stops (f5.6).

Next, open one more stop for shade or on a totally overcast day and in mid winter we open one more f-stop.

Keep in mind that if you double shutter speed that will reduce the exposure by one f-stop and if you reduce the shutter speed by 1/2 that has the same effect as opening int aperture one f-stop.

Back in the days of film cameras we had to select the film speed before we set out, but with the modern digital you can change the ISO any time you want to. Here again, if you double the ISO number (I.E. 200 to 400) that has the same effect as opening the aperture one f-stop).

Beleive me, after you spend a couple days shooting by this method you will have an entirely new respect for the built in light meter and exposure controls on modern cameras.